2007 Nautique Super Air 236 Piggyback Ballast Upgrade

Free shipping on orders over $99  ·  Ships in 72 Hours — Guaranteed  ·  Made in Arizona
🏆 Trusted Since 2017 🚤 1,000+ Boats Served ⚡ Ships in 72 HRS — Guaranteed 📍 Made in Arizona 🛡️ 2-Year Warranty

Ballast University — Installation Guide

2006 - 2011 Super Air  Nautique Piggyback Ballast Upgrade

If you're running a 2006 - 2011 Super Air Nautique with  lb factory side tanks and a 300LB belly bag, you already know it's not enough. This guide walks through adding 800LB aftermarket bags on each side — piggybacked directly onto the factory NBS system. When the factory pumps run, they fill and drain both the hard tank and the new bag simultaneously. Push of a button, 2,400LBs total.

This kit is marketed as a universal fit. It is not a direct plug-and-play for these model factory tank vents are on the front of the hard tank, not the rear, so hose lengths will be longer than expected. Plan for extra routing. No cutting required unless you want a cleaner install.


Difficulty Moderate
Time 3–5 hours (first side)
Drilling No
Permanent Mods No

Tools Required

  • Heat gun
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Channel-lock pliers
  • Hose clamp driver or flathead

Kit Contents

  • Ballast bag (x2 for full install) — two bottom ports, two top ports
  • Vent hose with T-fitting (labeled "vent to overflow")
  • Through-hull fittings
  • Quick-connect fittings with blue release collar
  • Hose clamps (reuse factory clamps where possible)
⚠ Important — Fitment Note This is a universal kit designed for Nautique boats with rear-mounted tank vents. The some models have front-mounted vents on the hard tanks. Hose lengths will be longer than the kit assumes and routing will differ from any kit diagram.

Installation Steps

1

Access the Factory Hard Tank

Start on one side — complete it fully before moving to the other.

  1. Pull up the floor panels on the install side.
  2. Remove the engine side cover panel.
  3. Unbolt the hard tank mounting brackets (two bolts).
  4. Slide the hard tank rearward until you have clear access to the vent fitting on top of the tank.

The factory vent line runs from the top of the hard tank through a 90-degree barbed elbow and exits through the hull side. That's the line you're replacing.

2

Remove the Factory Vent Hose

  1. Loosen the hose clamp at the top of the hard tank where the vent hose connects.
  2. Apply heat gun to the hose at the fitting for 30–60 seconds before pulling. The hose is pressed onto a barbed fitting — heat is the only practical way to break the bond cleanly.
  3. Work the hose free and disconnect it from the hull vent fitting on the other end.
  4. Set the clamp aside — you will reuse it on the new hose.
Tip If you can't reach the fitting, the tank isn't back far enough. Shift it further rearward before forcing anything.
3

Install the New Vent Hose

The new hose replaces the factory vent line. It also includes a T-fitting that routes a second line to the top of the ballast bag.

  1. Slide the saved clamp onto the new hose before attaching anything.
  2. Heat the end of the new hose for 30+ seconds, then press it fully onto the barbed fitting on top of the hard tank. Cold hose will not seat. This is not optional.
  3. Tighten the clamp.
  4. Route the hose to the through-hull fitting and connect. This line vents air and overflow as the hard tank fills.
4

Route the Bag Vent Line

The T in the new hose routes a second line to the top of the ballast bag. This is how air escapes the bag as it fills with water.

  1. Run the hose from the T across the floor toward the bag location.
  2. Lay the entire hose run out before connecting anything — figure out the routing first, then cut slack if needed.
  3. Connect to the vent port on the top of the bag. The bag has two top ports: vent and plug. Connect to vent, plug the other.
  4. Heat hose ends before seating on fittings.
⚠ Routing — Keep Hoses Low and Flat High loops trap air and kill performance. Route every hose as low and flat as possible. This is the most common mistake on this install.
5

Connect the Fill Line to the Bag

The bag fills through the fill port on the bottom.

  1. Install the quick-connect fitting into the fill port on the bottom of the bag. The bottom has two ports: fill/drain and plug. Connect to fill, plug the other.
  2. Connect the fill hose from the factory tank outlet to this quick-connect. Push in firmly until it clicks and locks.
  3. Verify: pull gently on the hose. It should not release without pulling the blue collar back.
Quick-Connect Release To disconnect: pull the blue collar back while pulling the hose. Do not force it without releasing the collar first.
6

Place the Bag and Finalize Routing

  1. Confirm all fittings are connected before placing the bag in the compartment.
  2. Place the bag over the factory hard tank.
  3. Finalize all hose routing — nothing kinked, nothing pinched under the tank, nothing in the path of the floor panels.
  4. Re-bolt the hard tank mounting brackets.
  5. Reinstall floor panels and engine cover.

Repeat the full process on the opposite side.

7

Test Before Launching

  1. Run the factory ballast pump on fill. The hard tank should fill first, then the bag should begin filling.
  2. Watch the hull vent — air should exhaust as water enters the bag. No airflow likely means the vent line is kinked or not connected.
  3. Run the pump on drain and confirm full drainage from the bag. Residual water left in the bag indicates a routing problem with the vent line.
  4. Inspect all hose clamps and quick-connects for drips after the test fill.

Installation Tips

Use the Heat Gun

Every hose-to-fitting connection on this install benefits from heat. 30–60 seconds before seating. Don't skip it.

Route Low, Always

High hose loops trap air and reduce fill/drain performance. Every hose, every run — low and flat.

Extra Hose is Normal

On the 236, front-mounted tank vents mean more hose than expected. Coil and zip-tie the excess. Don't cut unless you're certain of the final routing.

Label Your Ports

Bottom bag: fill/drain + plug. Top bag: vent + plug. Don't swap them or the bag won't fill or drain correctly.

Clamps Before Connection

Slide hose clamps onto the hose before seating on the fitting. Forgetting means pulling everything back apart.

Test Fill Before Flooring

Don't button up the floor panels until you've run a test fill and confirmed everything drains completely.

Need Parts for This Install?

Hoses, fittings, through-hull hardware, and ballast bags — everything for a clean piggyback upgrade.

Shop Hoses & Fittings Questions? Call 877-321-7962 or email support@wakeballast.com Ships in 72 Hours — Guaranteed  ·  2-Year Warranty  ·  Made in Arizona